Seed Saving

Growing resilience through ancient wisdom and modern practice

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Saving seeds is an act of sovereignty. Every seed saved is a library of genetic information that has evolved over millennia. Every seed shared is an act of rebellion against enclosure.

Seed saving is not just about gardening. It is about refusing to let corporations patent the code of life itself.

Why Save Seeds

  • Genetic sovereignty — Exit the corporate seed system
  • Adaptation — Varieties adapt to your specific conditions over time
  • Resilience — Supply chain failures do not stop your garden
  • Cost savings — Seeds are free after the first purchase
  • Tradition — Participate in a practice thousands of years old
  • Diversity — Preserve varieties not available commercially

Open-Pollinated vs Hybrid

Open-Pollinated (OP)

Seeds grow true to type. Save seeds and get the same plant next year. These are the seeds to save.

Heirloom

Open-pollinated varieties passed down through generations (usually 50+ years). Often have superior flavor and adaptation.

Hybrid (F1)

Cross between two parent lines. Seeds do not grow true. Do not save seeds from hybrids. Look for "F1" on packets.

GMO

Genetically modified. Patented. Illegal to save. Not available to home gardeners typically.

Easy Seeds for Beginners

Crop Method Notes
Beans Dry on plant, shell Self-pollinating, easy
Peas Dry on plant, shell Self-pollinating, easy
Lettuce Let bolt, collect fluff Self-pollinating, prolific
Tomatoes Ferment seeds Self-pollinating, popular
Peppers Dry seeds from ripe fruit Self-pollinating, easy

Saving Tomato Seeds (Fermentation Method)

  1. Select fruit: Choose best example of variety, fully ripe
  2. Cut and squeeze: Cut tomato, squeeze seeds and gel into jar
  3. Add water: Add small amount of water if thick
  4. Ferment: Cover loosely, let sit 2-4 days (stirs daily)
  5. Separate: Viable seeds sink, pour off floating debris
  6. Rinse: Rinse seeds in fine strainer
  7. Dry: Spread on plate or screen, dry completely (1-2 weeks)
  8. Store: Paper envelope, cool dry place

Why ferment? Removes germination inhibitors and seed coat diseases.

Isolation Distances

To maintain pure varieties, prevent cross-pollination:

Crop Family Isolation Distance Pollination
Tomato, Pepper, Eggplant 10-50 feet Self-pollinating
Beans, Peas 10-20 feet Self-pollinating
Lettuce 10-20 feet Self-pollinating
Squash, Pumpkins 1/4 to 1 mile Insect-pollinated
Corn 1 mile Wind-pollinated
Brassicas (broccoli, kale) 1 mile Insect-pollinated

Cleaning and Processing

Dry Seeds (Beans, Peas, Lettuce)

  • Allow to dry completely on plant if possible
  • Thresh: crush pods to release seeds
  • Winnow: pour between bowls in breeze to separate chaff
  • Screen: use mesh to separate by size

Wet Seeds (Tomatoes, Cucumbers, Squash)

  • Scoop seeds from ripe fruit
  • Ferment or rinse immediately
  • Dry thoroughly on screen or plate
  • Break apart clumps when dry

Storage

  • Containers: Paper envelopes (breathable), glass jars with desiccant
  • Label: Variety, date saved, location grown
  • Conditions: Cool, dry, dark (ideal: 32-41°F, below 40% humidity)
  • Viability: Most seeds viable 2-5 years; onions, parsnips only 1-2 years

Seed Viability Chart

Crop Years Viable
Beans, Peas 3-5 years
Tomatoes, Peppers 4-6 years
Lettuce 5-6 years
Squash, Cucumbers 5-6 years
Carrots, Parsnips 2-3 years
Onions 1-2 years
Corn 2-3 years

Seed Library

We maintain a seed library of adapted varieties. Take what you need. Return seeds if you can. Share what you grow.

Back to Preservation Smoking & Curing Planting Guide