Barrier 02 Russian Olive
layout: base.njk title: "Russian Olive" plantName: "Elaeagnus angustifolia" category: "Barrier Hedge & Support Species" description: "Growing guide for Russian Olive in West Virginia Zone 6b/7a" tags: planting-guide
Type: Deciduous small tree/large shrub
Family: Elaeagnaceae (Oleaster family)
Sun: Full sun to partial shade
Water: Low; extremely drought tolerant once established
Soil pH: 5.5-8.5 (tolerates alkaline, saline, poor soils)
Hardiness: Zones 3-9 (excellent for WV Zone 6b/7a)
Growth Rate: Fast (2-3 feet/year)
Mature Size: 15-25 ft tall × 15-20 ft spread (can reach 30 ft)
⚠️ INVASIVE STATUS WARNING
⚠️ INVASIVE IN MANY STATES; PROBLEMATIC IN WEST VIRGINIA
Russian olive is listed as invasive or noxious in many western states and is considered invasive/problematic in parts of eastern US including West Virginia. Less aggressive than autumn olive but still spreads readily.
Why it was introduced: Ornamental, windbreaks, street tree, erosion control, reclamation sites (early-mid 1900s)
Current status: Escaped cultivation, found along roadsides, railways, stream banks, disturbed areas. Less widespread than autumn olive in eastern US but increasing.
Management obligation: Monitor for seedling spread. Remove unwanted seedlings. Consider native alternatives.
Legal status: Banned in some western states (Colorado, Connecticut, Massachusetts). Not currently banned in WV but discouraged.
Native alternatives: Serviceberry (Amelanchier canadensis), Redbud (Cercis canadensis), Elderberry (Sambucus canadensis), Willow (Salix species)
📅 Planting Calendar (WV Zone 6b/7a)
| Activity | Timing | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Plant bare-root | March 15 - April 30 | While dormant |
| Plant container | April-May or September-October | Drought tolerant; fall OK |
| Prune | Late winter (February-March) | Before budbreak; tolerates heavy pruning |
| Harvest fruit | August-September | When silvery-yellow, slightly soft |
| Remove seedlings | Spring-Fall | Pull young plants; dig roots |
| Containment | After fruiting | Remove fruit-laden branches if controlling spread |
🌾 Varieties / Related Species
Russian Olive (Elaeagnus angustifolia)
- Source: Historical plantings, some nurseries (where legal)
- Notes: More tree-like than autumn olive. Narrow, willow-like leaves with silvery scales. Yellow fruit (not red). Very fragrant flowers.
Thorny Russian Olive (Elaeagnus pungens)
- Source: Limited availability
- Notes: Evergreen or semi-evergreen in mild climates. More thorny. Less cold-hardy (zones 6-9). Less invasive than E. angustifolia.
Autumn Olive (Elaeagnus umbellata)
- Source: See barrier_01
- Notes: More invasive, shrubbier, red berries. Similar nitrogen-fixing ability.
Cherry Elaeagnus (Elaeagnus multiflora)
- Source: Specialty nurseries
- Notes: Larger, sweeter fruit. Less invasive than autumn/Russian olive. More edible quality.
📜 Cultural History & Native Range
Native Range: Southern Europe, western and central Asia (from Spain to India)
Introduction to North America: 1736. Originally planted as ornamental. Widely used in mid-1900s for windbreaks, street trees, erosion control, mine reclamation.
Indigenous Use: None in North America—non-native species. However, in native range (central Asia), fruit has been used traditionally: - Dried fruit as food source (similar to dates) - Medicinal uses: Astringent, digestive aid - Wood for small crafts, tool handles
Historical Applications: - Windbreaks: Extensively planted in Great Plains Shelterbelt project (1930s) - Street tree: Tolerates urban pollution, poor soils, salt spray - Erosion control: Stabilizes banks, tolerates disturbed soils - Wildlife habitat: Provides cover, food for birds and mammals - Reclamation: Mine sites, landfills, industrial areas
Ecological Impact: - Displaces native riparian vegetation (especially cottonwoods, willows) - Fixes nitrogen, altering soil chemistry - Allelopathic properties (some evidence of growth inhibition in neighboring plants) - Fruits eaten and dispersed by birds (less than autumn olive) - Tolerates flooding, drought, poor soils—outcompetes natives in harsh conditions
Current Perspective: Less aggressive than autumn olive in eastern US, but still problematic. More accepted in western states where it's better naturalized. Some permaculturists use it in highly managed systems where invasiveness can be controlled.
🌿 Farm Functions
Primary Functions: - Nitrogen fixation: Hosts Frankia bacteria in root nodules (actinorhizal symbiosis). Fixes 10-25+ lbs nitrogen per acre annually. Improves soil fertility for neighboring plants. - Pioneer species: Establishes in poor, alkaline, saline, droughty, compacted soils where few plants grow - Windbreak: Fast-growing, dense canopy provides excellent shelter - Erosion control: Extensive root system stabilizes stream banks, slopes - Street tree: Tolerates urban conditions (pollution, salt, compacted soil)
Secondary Functions: - Edible fruit: Yellow, date-like fruit when ripe. Sweet, mealy texture. High in vitamin C, carbohydrates. Use fresh, dried (like dates), or made into bread, cakes (traditional Central Asian use). - Medicinal: Astringent, anti-inflammatory (traditional uses in native range) - Craft: Wood is hard, close-grained; used for small objects, tool handles, engraving - Pollinator support: Extremely fragrant yellow-white flowers (vanilla scent) in May-June attract bees, beneficial insects - Wildlife habitat: Fruit eaten by birds, small mammals; dense cover for nesting
How Nitrogen Fixation Works: - Root nodules contain Frankia bacteria (actinobacteria) - Bacteria convert atmospheric N₂ to ammonia (NH₃) - Plant uses nitrogen; excess released to soil via root exudates and leaf litter - Actinorhizal fixation occurs in woody tissues (longer-term than herbaceous legumes) - Nodules visible on roots (pink/red inside when active)
What Pollinators It Attracts: - Bees: Honeybees, bumblebees, native solitary bees - Beneficial insects: Hoverflies, predatory wasps - Moths: Strong evening fragrance attracts night-flying species
🌱 Growing in WV Clay
Site Selection: FULL SUN best, tolerates partial shade. Choose locations with good air circulation. Ideal for windbreaks, street plantings, erosion control on difficult sites. Avoid planting near natural riparian areas.
Soil Prep: Minimal required—grows in terrible soil. Tolerates clay, sand, alkaline, saline, compacted, poor soils. For establishment: - Dig hole 2-3× root ball width - Amend with compost if available (not necessary) - No fertilizer needed (fixes own nitrogen)
Planting: - Bare-root: Soak roots 2-4 hours before planting - Container: Water well before planting - Depth: Plant at nursery depth or slightly deeper for bare-root - Spacing: 10-15 ft apart for windbreak; 20-25 ft for specimen trees - Water thoroughly after planting - Mulch 3-4" (keep away from trunk)
Care: - Water: Regular first year; extremely drought tolerant after establishment - Fertilizer: NOT NEEDED - Pruning: Responds well to pruning; can be sheared for hedge - Weed control: Not needed once established
Propagation: - Seeds: Stratification 90-120 days; germinates readily - Cuttings: Hardwood (winter) or semi-hardwood (summer); use rooting hormone - Suckers: Produces root suckers; can transplant - Layering: Low branches root where touching soil
✂️ Management
Pruning: - When: Late winter (February-March) before budbreak - How much: Tolerates heavy pruning; can remove up to 1/3 annually - Why: Control size, remove dead wood, maintain shape, prevent spread - Shearing: Responds well to formal hedging - Rejuvenation: Can cut to ground; resprouts vigorously
Containment: - Seed prevention: Remove fruit-laden branches after flowering if preventing spread - Root barriers: Install 24-30" deep if concerned about suckering near structures - Buffer zones: Plant 50+ ft from natural areas, streams, woodlands - Monitoring: Check for seedlings; remove promptly - Disposal: Bag and trash fruit; don't spread seed
Harvest: - When: August-September, when fruit turns from silver to yellow and softens - How: Hand-pick; shake branches onto tarp - Yield: 5-20+ lbs per mature tree - Storage: Fresh 1 week; dry for longer storage (like dates); make preserves
Chop-and-Drop: - Prunings are nitrogen-rich; chip for mulch - Leaves high in nitrogen; compost as green material - Biomass: Fast-growing; substantial organic matter production
⚠️ Cautions
Invasive Potential: ⚠️⚠️ MODERATE to HIGH - Spreads via bird-dispersed seeds - Less aggressive than autumn olive in eastern US - More problematic in western states (riparian areas) - Listed as invasive/noxious in some states - Difficult to eradicate once established
Management Requirements: - Monitor for seedling spread - Remove unwanted seedlings promptly - Avoid planting near natural areas, streams - Consider native alternatives
Thorns: - Branches often have 1-2" thorns (more thorny than autumn olive) - Wear gloves and long sleeves when pruning/harvesting - Not ideal for high-traffic areas or children's play spaces
Other Cautions: - Allelopathy: Some evidence of growth inhibition in neighboring plants - Allergies: Fragrant flowers may trigger sensitivities - Livestock: Generally safe; deer browse foliage
Removal (if needed): - Small plants: Pull by hand (moist soil), remove entire root - Medium plants: Cut stump, treat with 20-25% triclopyr - Large plants: Cut stump treatment or basal bark application - Follow-up: Monitor for seedlings/suckers for 2-3 years - Timing: Best in late summer/fall
🌳 Integration in Farm Design
Where to Plant: - Windbreaks (excellent fast-growing species) - Street plantings, farm roads - Erosion control on difficult sites (alkaline, saline, droughty) - Highly disturbed areas (old fields, construction sites) - Nitrogen-fixing guilds on degraded soils - NOT near natural riparian areas, streams, woodlands
Where NOT to Plant: - Adjacent to natural areas, forests, preserves - Near streams, rivers, wetlands (especially in western states) - Naturalized areas where seeds can spread - Child play areas (thorns)
Guild Mates: - Other nitrogen fixers: Autumn olive, sea buckthorn, false indigo - Pioneer species: Willow, cottonwood, sumac - Heavy feeders: Corn, squash (benefit from nitrogen) - Mycorrhizal plants: Most fruit trees benefit from improved soil
Design Applications: - Windbreaks: Fast-establishing outer row - Street trees: Farm roads, driveways - Erosion control: Difficult sites where few plants grow - Nitrogen orchards: Interplanted with fruit/nut trees - Wildlife habitat: Edge plantings (managed)
Exit Strategy: - Plan for eventual removal and replacement with natives - Monitor for 2-3 years after removal for seedlings/suckers - Replace with serviceberry, redbud, elderberry as soil improves
📖 Sources Consulted
- USDA PLANTS Database. Elaeagnus angustifolia profile. plants.usda.gov
- USDA Forest Service. "Silvics of North America."
- Dirr, Michael A. (2009). Dirr's Encyclopedia of Trees and Shrubs. Timber Press.
- Missouri Botanical Garden. Elaeagnus angustifolia plant finder.
- Colorado State University Extension. "Russian Olive: Invasive Species."
- West Virginia Division of Natural Resources. "Invasive Plant Species of West Virginia."
- Invasive Plant Atlas of the United States (IPANE). University of Georgia.
- Toensmeier, Eric. (2013). Perennial Vegetables. Chelsea Green Publishing.
- Facciola, Stephen. (1990). The Cornucopia II: A Source Book for Edibles. Kampong Publications.
- Duke, James A. (1983). Handbook of Energy Crops. Purdue University.
🔍 Quick Reference
| Attribute | Value |
|---|---|
| Native Status | ⚠️ Introduced (Europe/Asia) — Invasive in some areas |
| Nitrogen Fixation | 10-25+ lbs N/acre/year (Frankia bacteria) |
| Fruit Production | 5-20+ lbs/tree (August-September) |
| Pollinators | Bees, hoverflies, moths (extremely fragrant flowers) |
| Invasive Risk | ⚠️⚠️ MODERATE to HIGH (less than autumn olive) |
| Thorns | Yes (1-2" thorns on branches) |
| Drought Tolerance | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Extremely high |
| Management | Moderate monitoring, seedling removal, pruning |
| Best Use | Windbreaks, street trees, difficult sites (avoid natural areas) |
Bottom Line: Russian olive is a tough, drought-tolerant nitrogen fixer excellent for windbreaks and difficult sites where few plants grow. More tree-like and less invasive than autumn olive in eastern US, but still requires monitoring for spread. For most farm applications, native alternatives (redbud, serviceberry, willow) are preferable. Consider only for challenging sites (windbreaks, street plantings, erosion control on difficult soils) with commitment to monitoring and management. 🐺🌳