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Cool 03 Kale

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Cool 03 Kale

layout: base.njk title: "Kale" plantName: "Brassica oleracea var. acephala" category: "Cool Season Crops" description: "Growing guide for Kale in West Virginia Zone 6b/7a" tags: planting-guide

Curly kale plants with ornamental green and purple leaves

Type: Biennial (grown as annual)
Family: Brassicaceae (Cruciferae)
Sun: Full sun to part shade (6+ hours sun, afternoon shade in summer)
Water: Moderate (1-1.5" per week, consistent moisture)
Soil pH: 6.0-7.5
Hardiness: Zones 2-11 (extremely cold hardy, can overwinter)

📅 Planting Calendar (WV Zone 6b/7a)

Method Timing Notes
Start indoors February 15 - March 31 5-7 weeks before last frost. Sow 1/4-1/2" deep at 60-70°F. Germination in 5-10 days. Strong seedlings tolerate transplant well.
Direct sow March 15 - May 15; July 15 - August 31 Soil temp 45-85°F. Sow 1/2" deep, 1" apart, thin to 12-18". Spring and fall crops. Fall kale often sweeter (cold improves flavor).
Transplant March 25 - May 1; July 25 - September 15 Harden off 5-7 days. Space 12-18" apart depending on variety. Tolerates frost down to 10-15°F (some varieties lower).
Days to maturity 50-75 days Baby leaves: 25-30 days. Full size: 50-75 days. Winter varieties slower but cold-hardier.
Succession plant Every 3-4 weeks spring and fall For continuous harvest. Plant cold-tolerant varieties in late summer for overwintering and early spring harvest.

🌱 Expected Yield

  • Per plant: 1/2-1 lb per harvest (outer leaves, cut-and-come-again). Full plant harvest: 1-2 lbs.
  • Per 10' row: 8-15 lbs sustained harvest over season. Winter harvest: 3-5 lbs per 10' row.
  • Per season: With succession planting and overwintering: 20-40 lbs per 10' row (year-round possible with protection).

🌿 Growing Conditions

  • Soil: Well-drained, fertile soil high in organic matter and nitrogen. Kale is a moderate to heavy feeder. Loose, loamy soil with good moisture retention. pH 6.5-7.0 ideal. Amend with 3-4" compost and composted manure before planting. Raised beds recommended for drainage.
  • Fertilizer: Moderate to heavy nitrogen feeder. Side-dress with compost, blood meal, or fish emulsion every 4-6 weeks. Apply composted manure or extra compost at planting (2-3 tbsp bone meal per 10' row for phosphorus). Additional nitrogen promotes leafy growth.
  • Companions: Excellent with onions, celery, potatoes, dill, rosemary, sage, thyme, beets, carrots. Strong herbs deter pests. Onions mask kale scent from cabbage moths. Beneficial companions attract predatory wasps that eat cabbage worms.
  • Avoid: Plant away from strawberries, tomatoes, pole beans (can inhibit each other's growth). Avoid planting after other brassicas (shared pests and diseases—rotate 3-4 years).
  • Pests: Cabbage worms/imported cabbage moths (Bt, row covers, hand-picking), cabbage loopers (Bt, beneficial wasps), aphids (hose off, insecticidal soap, ladybugs), flea beetles (row covers, especially for young plants), slugs (diatomaceous earth, hand-picking), harlequin bugs (remove eggs, beneficial wasps).
  • Diseases: Black rot (bacterial—rotate crops, avoid overhead watering), clubroot (soil-borne—raise pH to 7.2+, rotate 5-7 years), downy mildew (improve airflow), alternaria leaf spot (remove affected leaves), powdery mildew (rare in cool weather—improve circulation). Kale is generally disease-resistant compared to other brassicas.

🏺 Heirloom Varieties (5-10+)

'Lacinato' (Dinosaur Kale, Tuscan Kale, Black Cabbage)

  • Source: Seed Savers Exchange, Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds (rareseeds.com), Johnny's Selected Seeds (johnnyseeds.com)
  • Days: 60 days
  • Notes: Italian heirloom dating to 18th century (possibly older). Dark blue-green, heavily textured leaves resembling dinosaur skin. Extremely cold hardy (to 10°F or lower). Sweetens with frost. Tender texture, excellent for kale chips. Standard for Italian ribollita soup.

'Winterbor'

  • Source: Johnny's Selected Seeds, Territorial Seed Company (territorialseed.com)
  • Days: 62 days
  • Notes: Hybrid, F1. Curly, blue-green leaves. Extremely cold hardy (to -10°F with protection). Uniform, vigorous growth. High yield. Less bitter than some varieties after frost. Excellent for fall and winter harvest. Popular with market growers.

'Red Russian'

  • Source: Seed Savers Exchange, Baker Creek, Southern Exposure Seed Exchange (southernexposure.com)
  • Days: 55 days
  • Notes: Russian heirloom brought to America in 1800s. Flat, serrated leaves with purple veins and stems. Cold hardy (to 10°F). Sweet, tender texture (less fibrous than curly types). Purple color intensifies in cold weather. Beautiful in ornamental plantings and edible landscapes.

'Dwarf Blue Curled Vates'

  • Source: Seed Savers Exchange, Baker Creek, Burpee (burpee.com)
  • Days: 55 days
  • Notes: American heirloom from 1800s. Compact, curly blue-green leaves. Cold hardy (to 10-15°F). Dwarf habit (12-15" tall), good for containers. Slow to bolt. Mild flavor when young, stronger when mature. Reliable producer.

'Red Ursa'

  • Source: Seed Savers Exchange, Baker Creek, High Mowing Organic Seeds (highmowingseeds.com)
  • Days: 60 days
  • Notes: Cross between Red Russian and Siberian kale. Large, frilly leaves with red-purple veins. Extremely cold hardy. Sweetens with frost. Fast growing, vigorous. Beautiful ornamental value. Mild, sweet flavor. Can reach 3-4' in ideal conditions.

'Nero di Toscana' (Black Tuscany)

  • Source: Baker Creek, Seed Savers Exchange, Franchi Seeds (franchiseeds.com)
  • Days: 65 days
  • Notes: Traditional Italian variety, synonym for Lacinato. Dark green, almost black leaves. Long, narrow, heavily blistered texture. Cold hardy. Sweet, nutty flavor. Classic for Italian cuisine. Slower growing but exceptional quality.

'White Russian'

  • Source: Seed Savers Exchange, Baker Creek
  • Days: 58 days
  • Notes: Russian heirloom. Similar to Red Russian but with white/light green veins. Flat, oakleaf-shaped leaves. Cold hardy, tender texture. Sweet, mild flavor. Less common than Red Russian but equally productive.

'Siberian'

  • Source: Seed Savers Exchange, Baker Creek, Johnny's Selected Seeds
  • Days: 55 days
  • Notes: Russian heirloom. Large, flat, serrated leaves. White veins. Extremely cold hardy (to 5°F or lower). Fast growing. Tender, sweet flavor. Bolts more quickly in spring than other varieties. Excellent for fall planting and spring harvest.

'Blue Scotch Curled'

  • Source: Seed Savers Exchange, Baker Creek
  • Days: 60 days
  • Notes: Scottish heirloom. Tightly curled, blue-green leaves. Compact habit. Cold hardy. Fine-textured, good for garnishes. Classic "curly kale" appearance. Strong flavor when mature, mild when young.

'Premier'

  • Source: Johnny's Selected Seeds, Territorial Seed Company
  • Days: 52 days
  • Notes: Hybrid, F1. Dark green, semi-savoyed leaves. Early maturing. Cold tolerant. Uniform growth, high yield. Less bitter than many varieties. Good for baby leaf production and full-size harvest. Bolt resistant.

📜 Cultural History & Domestication

Domesticated: Kale is among the oldest domesticated vegetables, derived from wild cabbage (Brassica oleracea) native to coastal regions of western and southern Europe. Domestication occurred over 2000 years ago, possibly as early as 500 BCE by ancient Greeks and Celts.

Archaeological Evidence: Wild Brassica oleracea remains identified in European Neolithic sites (4000-2000 BCE). Kale-type leaves depicted in Roman agricultural texts. Theophrastus (371-287 BCE) described a "curly-leaved cabbage" in his botanical writings, likely an early kale form.

Historical Record: Ancient Greeks cultivated kale-type brassicas, valuing them for food and medicine. Pythagoras (6th century BCE) reputedly praised kale's nutritional properties. Romans grew multiple brassica varieties—Cato the Elder (234-149 BCE) wrote extensively about cabbage/kale cultivation in "De Agri Cultura," recommending it for health and longevity. Medieval Europeans relied heavily on kale as a winter staple—its cold hardiness made it one of few vegetables available in cold months. The English word "kale" derives from Old English "cawel" and Latin "caulis" (stem/cabbage). In Scotland, kale was so central to diet that "kail" became synonymous with dinner/supper. Kale arrived in America with early European colonists—English settlers brought seeds to Jamestown and Plymouth. Thomas Jefferson grew kale at Monticello, recording multiple varieties in his garden books. During World War I and II, kale was promoted in victory gardens for its nutrition and hardiness. The "kale craze" of the 2010s transformed kale from humble peasant food to trendy superfood, though nutritionists note all leafy greens offer similar benefits.

Cultural Significance: In medieval Europe, kale symbolized perseverance and survival—its ability to thrive in harsh conditions made it a metaphor for resilience. Scottish Highlanders considered kale essential, with traditional varieties like "Curled Kale" passed down through generations. The "kale yard" (kitchen garden) was standard in Scottish cottages. In Portuguese cuisine, kale (couve) is essential for caldo verde soup. Italians prize Lacinato kale (cavolo nero) for traditional Tuscan dishes like ribollita and cavolo nero sautéed with garlic. During the Great Depression, kale's hardiness and nutrition made it crucial for subsistence farming. Modern nutritional science confirms kale is exceptionally rich in vitamins A, C, K, folate, minerals (calcium, iron), and antioxidants (quercetin, kaempferol). The 2010s kale trend elevated the vegetable's cultural status, though it has been a staple for millennia.

🌾 Seed Saving

  • Method: Kale is biennial—requires vernalization (cold period) to flower. Leave healthiest plants in ground over winter (mulch heavily) or dig and store in cool place, replanting in spring. In spring, plants send up 3-5' flower stalks with clusters of yellow, four-petaled flowers (typical brassica cross shape). Bees and other insects pollinate heavily. Seed pods (siliques) form 4-6 weeks after flowering, turning from green to tan/brown when mature. Cut stalks when most pods are brown but before shattering. Hang in paper bags or on tarps in dry, ventilated area 2-3 weeks. Thresh by beating bags or rolling stalks with garden roller. Winnow by pouring between bowls in breeze to separate seeds from chaff.
  • Isolation distance: 2 miles minimum (up to 5 miles for pure seed). Kale cross-pollinates readily with other Brassica oleracea varieties (cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, collards—though collards are B. oleracea var. acephala like kale, so same species). Cage isolated plants or grow only one variety for seed.
  • Viability: 4-5 years when stored in cool, dry, dark conditions in airtight containers. Kale seeds are medium-sized and store reasonably well.
  • Special notes: Save seed from minimum 5-10 plants to maintain genetic diversity. Select for cold hardiness, flavor, leaf quality, bolt resistance. For overwintering, choose the hardiest plants and mulch heavily with straw or leaves. Some varieties bolt more easily—avoid saving seed from plants that bolt prematurely. In zone 6b/7a, fall-planted kale will naturally vernalize and flower in spring if left in ground.

📖 Sources Consulted

  1. Jett, Lewis W. "2026 Garden Calendar." WVU Extension Service.
  2. Ashworth, Suzanne. Seed to Seed: Seed Saving and Growing Techniques for Vegetable Gardeners, 2nd ed. Seed Savers Exchange, 2002.
  3. "Growing Kale in the Home Garden." Ohio State University Extension, HYG-1609-08.
  4. "Kale and Collard Production." North Carolina State University Cooperative Extension, AG-448.
  5. Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds Catalog. rareseeds.com, 2025.
  6. Johnny's Selected Seeds Grower's Library. johnnyseeds.com, 2025.
  7. Vaughan, J.G. and P.A. Judd. The Oxford Book of Health Foods. Oxford University Press, 2003. (Nutritional information)
  8. "Kale Varieties." Seed Savers Exchange Yearbook. seedsavers.org, 2025.

🌾 Natural Soil Amendments (Loop Farmstead Standard)

Only on-farm, regenerative inputs:

  • Compost: 1-2 inches annually (on-farm production)
  • Cover crops: Rye + vetch (fall), buckwheat (summer), daikon (compaction)
  • Wood chips: Pathways only (aged 2+ years for beds)
  • Fall leaves: Mulch or compost browns
  • Blood/bone meal: From farm-slaughtered animals
  • Biochar: Charged with compost tea (permanent carbon)
  • Wood ash: Light application from wood stove
  • Eggshells: Crushed/powdered (slow calcium)

❌ Never used: Synthetic fertilizers, mined minerals, gypsum, peat moss

See: natural_soil_amendments_standard.md for complete guide

Added to WV Planting Guide 26155 — The Loop Farmstead