Water is what makes an infused oil go rancid, so the drying of the plant before it goes in the oil is the whole method.
An infused oil carries the lipophilic fraction of a plant: fixed oils, waxes,
resins, fat-soluble vitamins, and the more non-polar terpenes. It does not carry tannins,
mucilage, sugars, mineral salts, or most glycosides. That single fact decides which plants
are worth infusing — calendula, comfrey leaf, plantain, chickweed, St John's wort flower,
rosemary, lavender, and the resinous conifers and buds all have a meaningful oil-soluble
fraction; a tannin plant such as oak bark has almost none.
Water is the enemy, and this is the method's one hard rule. Fresh plant material is
70-85% water. Water in a sealed jar of oil is the interface where hydrolysis and microbial
growth happen, and it is the reason home-infused oils go rancid or grow a film within weeks
while a properly dried infusion lasts a year or more. Wilt or dry the plant until it is
genuinely dry — floppy to limp to crisp — before it goes into the oil. If there is any
doubt, do a quick dry: a fresh plant in oil should be watched daily and strained at the
first sign of cloudiness or smell change.
Two methods, and when each is right:
- Cold (solar) infusion — 2-6 weeks at room temperature, shaken daily. Preserves
- Warm (low-heat) infusion — 2-4 hours at 40-60 C in a double boiler or a yogurt
Which oil. A stable, relatively flavourless carrier is better than a delicate one. Olive
oil is traditional and stable; sunflower and sweet almond are common; coconut oil is
excellent for wound and skin preparations because of its saturated fat content and its
low oxidation rate, and it is solid below about 24 C, which changes the texture of the
finished product. Avoid flax and other polyunsaturated seed oils for infused preparations
— they oxidise fastest and turn rancid quickest.
Oxidation is the failure mode to design against. Heat, light, oxygen and trace metals
all accelerate it; the visible signs are a smell like old nuts or crayons and a tacky
texture. Keep the finished oil in amber or dark glass, filled to the top to minimise
headspace, cool and dark, and mark the date. A year is a fair working life for a home
infused oil; six months if it was made with any fresh material.
Salves are an infused oil thickened with beeswax. The proportion of wax sets the
consistency and it is measured by weight, not by eye: about 20 g of beeswax to 100 mL of
oil gives a firm salve, about 10-12 g gives a soft one. Add the wax to the warm oil and
stir until dissolved, then pour while hot, because it sets fast. A salve is a semi-solid
vehicle: it stays where it is put, it is occlusive enough to reduce water loss from skin,
and it carries the oil-soluble fraction of whatever was infused. It is not sterile, and it
is not for a deep or dirty wound.
Infused oil — warm method (the reliable one)
1. Dry the plant first. Wilt or dry until limp-to-crisp; a fully dry leaf crumbles.
Fresh material in oil is the commonest cause of a spoiled batch.
2. Fill a clean dry jar loosely with the dried plant — do not pack it.
3. Cover with carrier oil by at least 2-3 cm; the plant must stay submerged to exclude air.
4. Warm gently: 40-60 C for 2-4 hours (double boiler, oven on its lowest setting with the
door ajar, or a yogurt maker). Do not exceed 60 C.
5. Cool, then strain through muslin and press the marc.
6. Let it stand 24 hours and decant off any water or sediment that settles.
7. Bottle in dark glass, filled high, labelled with plant, part, oil, and date.
Infused oil — cold method
Same as above, but steep 2-6 weeks at room temperature, shaking daily, in a dark place.
Strain at the first sign of cloudiness, off-smell, or a film.
Salve
- 100 mL infused oil to 10-12 g beeswax for a soft salve, 20 g for a firm one
- Grate or pellet the wax, warm the oil to about 65 C, stir the wax in until fully melted
- Optional: 1-2% vitamin E oil as an antioxidant (it slows rancidity, it does not stop it)
- Pour into tins while hot; it sets within minutes
- Label with all ingredients and the date. Shelf life ~1 year, less if stored warm.
Oil infusion with essential oil added (for scent or action)
Add the essential oil to the cooled oil, at a final dilution of 2-3%, immediately before
jarring. Adding it hot drives off the volatiles you just paid for. 2% is about 12 drops
per 30 mL.